Yes it’s a little odd. I know. But it’s a necessary step in producing more rabbits. Lucky for us, “breeding like rabbits” is all too true.
Step 1: Always take the female to the male. Females are more territorial, and males have less of an attention span. Sounds a little like real life for humans too. Anyway….if you take the male to the female, he will spend more time smelling around than bumping uglies. Always always always take the female to the male.
Step 2: Light a candle, put on some mood music, and watch it all unf…oh, never mind. It’s already done. It will not take much time out of your day to make sure that you get a successful breeding. When I bred mine, I watched the buck knock out two quick ones within a minute, watched for a couple of minutes, and then witnessed a third go-round. There are a lot of different ways to check for a successful breeding, but I like this hands off approach. Make sure they have three tries and you’re probably good to go.
Between 10-14 days you can palpate the females to check for pregnancy. I haven’t figured out how to do it yet, so watch all of the same YouTube videos I watched and see if you can. I waited the 29 days and woke up to exponentially more rabbits than I had the night before. Sometimes the suspense is half the fun.
The males can breed once a day successfully. I can attest since both of my does had kits and they were bred one day after the other. The only thing I noticed was that the male had a little harder time focusing on the task at hand. Maybe I’ll get him some Gatorade next time…
You can apparently re-breed the females 2-3 weeks after birth. I will keep you posted on how this plays out. I plan on breeding on week 2 to the exact day to see how it goes. I’ll be looking for ease of breeding, wellness of mama, and wellness/number of kits comparatively in the next litter.
If you have any other questions or comments please feel free!
Sorry about the video quality. YouTube channel coming soon. I will have a more involved post on building these in the future with full dimensions. Hope this is helpful!
I was worried about the poultry mesh because it’s so flimsy. It has been just over a month and it is still holding out. I don’t really believe that it will work out, but it’s pennies compared to the price of the welded wire, so I will probably stick with it.
So, this should be a relatively short post. I thought that, as it was my first step to starting my rabbitry, I should explain what I was looking for in my meat rabbits.
I did a lot of research and eventually landed on New Zealand white rabbits. Don’t ask me why the color is a thing…I don’t know. I honestly think it’s only a thing for show rabbits. Please comment if I am wrong, because I would love to know. I DO know that they come in all sorts of colors. Seems to be irrelevant, but all of the legitimate breeders seem to have whites, so that’s what I got.
As far as breeds go, I was all geeked and ready for some Flemish Giants until I did some reading. Yes they are huge. No, the turn around is not very fast. They put all of the first bit of time (and your food) into bone structure. This may be ok with you, but along with having home grown meat, I am also looking at it from a cost standpoint. Brass tax dictates that longer time from birth to table=more money. I know a lot of people breed New Zealand/ Californian crosses, but after much research on that, some people who are much smarter than I am were noticing that after only a few generations, the cross did not make any difference in the rabbit quality. That only means that they were having to re-cross their rabbits. Again, this may be fine with you if you have a lot more time than I do and are good at record keeping. At my homestead, I only have to keep track of one breed of rabbits. Obviously cross breeding throws more of a curve your way. If rabbits are your hobby, go for it. If rabbits are purely food, I say pick a breed and stick with it. I honestly did not do much more research than that on breeds because the majority of people eating their rabbits -that I found on the internet- were breeding New Zealands.
After you’re done brand shopping, you need to find a breeder. Gee whiz, I hope it’s easier for you than it was for me. Craigslist ended up being the winner for me. Once you find bunnies in your area, make sure you’re allowed to see where they live and that you get a pick of the rabbits. Anyone who won’t show you living conditions probably isn’t a trustworthy breeder. When you’re looking for breeders, make sure they are healthy. No eye or nasal discharge, no poop stuck to their fur, healthy front teeth (top overlapping the bottom, and straight). So when I got my rabbits all of this was good…but one of my females seems to have a bad case of vertigo. Terrible balance. Oddly enough, she just miscarried 6 kits. So other than the obvious, don’t take a rabbit if something seems off. It’s your money and you’re banking your breeding on it.
Short and sweet. I know that when you start looking for rabbits it may seem overwhelming. You’ll be fine. It’s really all common sense stuff out of the gate. There are sooooooo many people out there with blogs and YouTube channels, and opinions, but sometimes the majority rules. A lot of people are doing this stuff, so if it seems to be working for them, it may be a good start for you. You can always add/change/delete later. Start small, do your research, and I have faith that you will be a rockstar.
This was the first step in our homestead (not including our garden). Yes…the rabbits were names from Frozen (two and a half year old daughter). Rocky was named after a goat that my daughter fell in love with while we were watching Living Traditions Homestead on Youtube.
I started the rabbitry about a month ago and had NO IDEA what I was doing. I watched countless hours of YouTube videos before I got started and I’m still figuring out a lot as I go along. I will tell you this…It’s a good start. If you’re even a little bit handy and have/ can acquire some basic tools, you will be off and running to start raising meat rabbits.
Here’s how I started:
First, I had to find rabbits. Holy crap was this a chore. It has honestly been the hardest part so far. I literally sent 35 emails within a 15 minute break at work to different rabbitrys from different sites, I called, I texted, and I Googled and FINALLY found one that had some rabbits available. I ended up getting two females and a male because she gave them to me for $20 apiece instead of $25. This step took me about a month. We live in Michigan, so I think this might have been due to the frigid winter we had. I keep reading that the males go sterile while it is too hot or too cold. This makes sense, because every time I got ahold of someone, they didn’t have any rabbits “at this time.” What a drag…anyway…
Second, I built two rabbit tractors. I put the two females in one and the male in the other. This saved me a lot of money in buying rabbit pellets from TSC because they fill up on as much grass as they can. I put the females together because apparently the females can get very territorial. Cool beans, everyone was happy….
Third, I bred the females. This was honestly a lot easier than I expected. Always take the female to the male. The male can successfully breed once a day. Easy peasy, my girls were both knocked up.
Fourth, I started the lean-to. I had 28 ish days to get a shelter up for my breeders. I picked a good spot in the shade (rabbits don’t do well in heat), and out of the wind (rabbits are fine in the winter as long as they are dry and out of the wind). I had plenty of old treated lumber lying around and miles of tin that I bought for a song. I built mine 16×6. 16′ because that’s how long the existing shed was, and 6′ because tin is 3′ wide, so there is no waste. I should be able to fit 10 breeders in here very comfortably. It will have a cement floor for easy cleaning, because I plan on using/ selling the rabbit manure. More on rabbit manure uses in a separate post.
Fifth, I built my hanging cages. I built two for my females so far at 3′ wide, 2′ deep, and 18″ high. I’m thinking that the cages for the males will be 2’x2’x16″ so that there is no waste on my cage wire. Also, the males don’t require nesting boxes and won’t have up to 12 other bunnies in the cage with them, so they don’t need all of that real estate. If you catch on to anything around here, it may be that everything I do has some sort of electrical components holding it together. I hung my cages with EMT straps and blue #10 THHN. There are infinite ways to hang these things, but mine was free because I have this stuff everywhere.
Sixth, and finally as of this moment, was the nesting boxes. I believe I made them 8″x24″ by 10″ high. I used a bunch of scrap pine that my brother used to trim his house. I literally pulled it out of my fire pit with one of those light bulb moments. I have to keep remembering that part of homesteading is letting nothing go to waste…anyway, sorry to satellite on you there, they are not of uniform size.
This was my order of operation. It was very time crunched because after my long wait to find rabbits I kind of gave up. Naturally, when I gave up I finally got an email, ran to get three rabbits, and subsequently had no place for them to live. For this reason, I believe it to be a good order to work in, as it provides all of your parts and pieces as you will be needing them. I will eventually post more to the separate parts of this to show you in more detail how why why I built things the way that I did, but hopefully this gives you a good jumping off point. I highly recommend Living Traditions Homestead if you are going to start raising meat rabbits. She has a great video series just for you!
All of my welded wire for tractor floors and hanging cages was ordered from Far North International. They are a great company to work with and I haven’t been disappointed in any of their products yet. On top of that, they were cheaper than TSC and they shipped all of my stuff crazy fast.
